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Every piece begins in calico on a stand upstairs. We drape it, cut it apart, flatten it into a paper pattern and then argue about the shoulder for a week. A first toile takes roughly four days; the third one usually takes an afternoon, because by then the disagreement is only about buttons.

What the studio does

  • Seasonal collections — Two a year, shown in February and September to buyers and, on the last Saturday of each month, to anybody who wants to come and look. Around thirty styles, cut in sizes 6 to 20.
  • Made-to-measure commissions — Three fittings, eight to twelve weeks, from $1,150. Your pattern is kept and reused, so a second commission takes six weeks and a third rarely needs the toile stage at all.
  • Pattern cutting & sampling — We cut patterns and sew samples for four other small labels. Graded nests, a finished sample, and written specifications a factory can genuinely work from. Most styles sit between $400 and $900.
  • Bridal & occasion — Booked twelve months ahead, six fittings, and an early conversation about what you actually intend to sit down and dance in. Cloth is costed separately and we go and choose it together.

We make two collections a year and around 30 styles across both — small enough that the pattern cutter knows every seam in the range by name. Runs are forty to eighty pieces. When something sells through it is finished; we would rather retire a style than repeat it into the ground.

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Hero lines

  • Cut, sampled and made here
  • Two collections a year, no more
  • A studio, not a brand deck

Everything starts as a calico toile on a stand upstairs — the flat sketches come later, if at all.

Small runs of forty to eighty pieces, cut from cloth we can trace back to a mill we have visited.

Studio visits by appointment, Wednesday to Friday, 11:00–17:00. Ring the bell twice, because the machines are loud.

Team bios

Ottoline Marsh — Founder & designer

Ottoline trained in tailoring, spent six years in a large house learning precisely what she did not want to do, and opened this studio in 2017. She still cuts the first toile for every style herself. She works to loud radio and will not be apologising for it.

Kaspar Ndlovu — Pattern cutter

Kaspar has cut patterns for twenty-six years and can tell from a photograph where a sleeve head has gone wrong. He grades every size by hand rather than letting the software do it, and the difference shows up most clearly at a 20.

Suki Abrantes — Studio manager & machinist

Suki runs the production board, orders the cloth and sews the samples that go out to buyers. She is the reason deliveries arrive in the week we promised them. She holds strong views on interfacing and is very happy to share them.

Quotes

“Three fittings, and the jacket sits properly on my left shoulder, which is lower than my right and had never once been acknowledged out loud by anybody in a shop.”

Beatriz Nkemdirim, Made-to-measure

“Ottoline said, “you will have sweated through that silk by eight o'clock”, and talked me out of it entirely. The dress I ended up with is the one I still wear.”

Halvard Osei, Occasion commission

“We had our patterns cut here for two seasons and the specification sheets were the first ones our factory did not send straight back with questions. That alone was worth the fee!”

Lucia Trentham, Independent label

FAQ answers

How long does a commission take?

Eight to twelve weeks for a first piece, six for a repeat once we hold your pattern, twelve months for bridal. We do not take rush work at the end of a collection cycle — February and September are honestly not the months in which to ask us.

What does a made-to-measure piece cost?

Jackets start at $1,150, dresses at around $780, coats from $1,400, with cloth costed separately at roughly $40 to $120 a metre. We take a third at the first fitting, a third at the second, and the balance when you collect.

Where does your fabric come from?

Six mills we have visited in person, plus deadstock bought from larger houses in lots of 80 to 200 metres. We will tell you the mill, the composition and the weight of anything you are considering. If we cannot trace it, we do not buy it.

Can I come and see the studio?

Wednesday to Friday, 11:00–17:00, by appointment — it is a working room with pins on the floor and a cutting table nobody can walk around. The collection Saturdays in February and September are open to anyone. Both are worth seeing, for quite different reasons.

Closing lines

If you have an occasion in ten months and a photograph you keep returning to, bring both of them in. The first conversation is free, takes 45 minutes, and ends with an honest answer about whether we suit each other.

The studio is above the courtyard on the second floor — no shop window, no sign, just a bell and a stairwell. Wednesday to Friday, 11:00–17:00, and by arrangement in the evenings.

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